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Thanks to Paul Czarnecki who disassembled his Fresh Breeze
Ignition System to show us how to fix two of the more common problems.
Like all two strokes, reliability is proportional to maintenance. Thanks
also to John Black for instructions on replacing the wire that most
commonly breaks (on those with certain ignition systems).
There are two problems we address: 1st is how to check the stator and
replace if necessary, 2nd is how to replace the ignition wire that tends
to break on some models.
One big caution: before working on these motors, it's a great idea to
remove the spark plug so they can't accidentally start, especially with
electric start machines. One experienced pilot mangled his hand when a
motor started unexpectedly in the shop.
Tools in Use
1) Before removing anything,
measure the stator coil's resistance as described below. 2) The
Puller tool. 3) The various parts labeled before pulling
off the rotor housing. 4) Closeup of the rotor and starter bell
with the puller tool screwed in. 5) Using the special
wrench (see below) and puller tool to remove the rotor. 5) Your
target: the stator.
The Right Tools
As most know, it's important to have the right tools. Using the wrong
tools or using tools wrongly can inflict costly damage. Don't ask me how
I know that. I wish engine sellers offered toolkits that customers could
buy that had the specific tools required to work on that motor. It would
be a profit center for the seller and a stress reliever for the
customer. Here are a couple tools that will help on the Simonini.
The rotor wrench (1 below) holds the rotor while loosening the
retaining bolt. As the name implies, the rotor, which holds the
permanent magnet, rotates with the crankshaft. When taking it off, you
need to hold the rotor in place while loosening its retaining nut.
Holding the prop might also work but this tool makes it much easier.
This is one of those "right" tools for
pulling the rotor. Paul modified it to work on the Simonini
by grinding down the inside portion to get it to fit easily.
2) The puller (above near left) screws into a special threaded
hole on the rotor. A center screw on the puller is tightened which
pushes the rotor assembly off the crankshaft. Gear pullers can work but
it's hard to find them with small enough teeth to fit. Don't pull
on the aluminum starter receptacle which would likely destroy it.
Checking the Primary Stator Coil
  If
the motor gets progressively harder to start, it may be a shorting
stator coil. Thankfully, it's easy to check.
The stator coil is made of many, many thin windings with equally thin
insulation. If that insulation breaks down, lazy electricity (and it's
all lazy) cuts across the short, decreasing coil effectiveness. The
resulting low resistance is easy to measure. The far left mage shows
which wires to measure with your Ohm meter. Pull the plugs apart and
measure the wires leading upwards.
The stator output wires should be colored blue and black/red. The
other wires are for charging if that is supported. Charging wires are
dramatically shorter and will have a much lower resistance.
Normally, resistance is quite high since, although the coil is just a
wire, it's a very, very long, wire. About 300 Ohms is normal but
if insulation is breaking down the resistance decreases. Below 190 Ohms
the motor is hard to start and below 160 Ohms it's nearly impossible.
If the resistance is less than 200 Ohms, the stator should be
replaced.
Replacing the Stator
- Remove the starter housing.
- Remove the rotor housing. This may require a puller tool that
screws into the hand start bell. See photo 2 under "Tools In Use".
The bell is aluminum and is easily damaged -- use the right tool!
Paul Czarnecki at PlanetPPG.com may have them available or know
where to order them.
You may want to use heat if it's being contankerous. Just blow hot
air on the rotor unit it warms up nicely. That should expand it just
enough to come off easier.
- From here the stator is held on by two bolts. Remove and replace
then reverse the order of assembly.
Now go fly the thing!
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